Beaches are St. Croix's big attraction. The problem is that getting to them from Christiansted, which is home to most of the hotels, isn't always easy. It can also be expensive, especially if you want to go back and forth each day of your stay. Of course, you can always rent a condo right on the water.

The most celebrated beach is offshore Buck Island, part of the National Park network. Buck Island is actually a volcanic islet surrounded by some of the most stunning underwater coral gardens in the Caribbean. The white-sand beaches on the southwest and west coasts are beautiful, but the snorkeling is even better. The islet's interior is filled with such plants as cactus, wild frangipani, and pigeonwood. There are picnic areas for those who want to make a day of it. The whole world seems to show up here -- all sexes, all ages, whatever. Boat departures are from Kings Wharf in Christiansted; the ride takes a half-hour.

Your best choice for a beach in Christiansted is the one at the Hotel on the Cay. This white-sand strip is on a palm-shaded island. The beach draws guests of the hotel, mainly a middle-aged crowd, but also a lot of people in their 20s and 30s, singles and couples, who are staying at one of the inns in Christiansted. To get here, take the ferry from the fort at Christiansted; it runs daily from 7am to midnight. The 4-minute trip costs $3, free for guests of the Hotel on the Cay.

Five miles west of Christiansted is the Cormorant Beach Club, where some 1,200 feet of white sand shaded by palm trees attracts a gay crowd. Because a reef lies just off the shore, snorkeling conditions are ideal.

We highly recommend both Davis Bay and Cane Bay, with swaying palms, white sand, and good swimming and snorkeling. Because they're on the north shore, these beaches are often windy, and their waters are not always tranquil. Nonetheless, a lot of families staying in nearby condos frequent these sands. The snorkeling at Cane Bay is truly spectacular; you'll see elkhorn and brain corals, all lying some 750 feet off the "Cane Bay Wall." Cane Bay adjoins Route 80 on the north shore. Davis Beach doesn't have a reef; it's more popular among bodysurfers than snorkelers. There are no changing facilities. It's near Carambola Beach Resort.

On Route 63, a short ride north of Frederiksted, lies Rainbow Beach, which offers white sand and ideal snorkeling conditions. Nearby, also on Route 63, about 5 minutes north of Frederiksted, is another good beach, called La Grange. Lounge chairs can be rented here, and there's a bar nearby. A lot of single travelers are attracted to this beach area.

Sandy Point, directly south of Frederiksted, is the largest beach in all the U.S. Virgin Islands, attracting mainly families and couples. Its waters are shallow and calm, perfect for swimming. Try to concentrate on the sands and not the unattractive zigzagging fences that line the beach. Take the Melvin Evans Highway (Route 66) west from the Henry E. Rohlsen Airport.

There's an array of beaches at the East End of the island; they're somewhat difficult to get to but much less crowded, attracting the adventurous traveler, both lone beach buffs and often groups of friends. The best choice here is Isaac Bay Beach, ideal for snorkeling, swimming, or sunbathing. Windsurfers like Reef Beach, which opens onto Teague Bay along Route 82, East End Road, a half-hour ride from Christiansted. You can get food at Duggan's Reef. Cramer Park is a special public park operated by the Department of Agriculture; it's lined with seagrape trees and has a picnic area, a restaurant, and a bar. Grapetree Beach is off Route 60 (the South Shore Road); watersports are popular here.